John h



(No Model.)

J. H. APPLEGATE.

LASTING BOOTS AND SHOES.

No. 248,566. Patented oat. 25,1881.

Wilfiesses. yfiau 5 6, MM

M gda.

UNiTnn STATES PATENT Orricn.

JOHN H. APPLEGATE, OF MALDEN, MASSACHUSETTS.

LASTING BOOTS AND SHOES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 248,566, dated October 25, 1881. Application filed June 16, 1881. (N model.)

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, J OHN H. APPLEGATE,

of Malden, county of Middlesex, State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Lasting Boots and Shoes, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification.

My invention relates to lasting boots and shoes; and it has for its object to enable the edges of the upper to be evenly gathered or shirred around the curved portions of the last placed therein; and it consistsin providing the upper at its edge to be drawn over the insole or last with a pocket or channel to receive a cord or wire, which, when placed therein, is drawn up tightly and tied together or otherwise fastened at its ends, it having, in the process of drawing up, evenly gathered or shirred the edges of the upper overlapping the last. The pocket or channel for receiving the said lasting-cord is preferably made of a strip of cloth cut bias or diagonally across the warp and weft, it being folded over the lasting-cord and then stitched to the edge of the upper. The said pocket may, however, be made in the lining of the upper by turning a portion of the said lining back and stitching it to the upper along the edges thereof; or a double line of stitching may be made, connecting the edges of the upper and lining to thus form a pocket; or the upper and lining may be connected at their edges by a single line of stitching, behind which the lasting-cord is placed between the said upper and lining; or the upper itself may be turned back and its edges stitched or otherwise united to form a pocket or channel for the reception of the said cord.

Figurel is an under sideview of a shoe lasted in accordance with my invention; Fig. 2, a transverse section thereof on line 00 00, Fig. 1; Fig. 3, a plan view of a strip employed to form the pocket or channel and the cord laid therein, ready to be stitched upon the upper; and Figs. 4, 5, 6, details, showing various ways of forming the pocket or channel for the lasting-cord.

The upper a, of any usual form, is shown as provided with a pocket or channel, I), along its edge, that is to be drawn overtheusualinsole, 0, upon the bottom of the last. A lasting-cord, cl, preferably run through or laid in the said pocket or channel b before placing it on the last, is drawn tightly and fastened together or otherwise secured at its ends,thus gathering in the edges of the upper over the curved portions 2 3 of the last, near its heel and toe, after which the side portions of the upper, along the instep, which do not need any gathering, may be drawn over the last and fastened to the insole in the usual manner; or, as herein shown,

additional lasting-cords, (1 d of any desired number, may be employed to draw the said edges toward one another over upon the inside or bottom of the last, and then tied or fastened at their ends to retain the said edges in position.

The pocket bis preferably made of a strip of cloth, as shown in Fig. 3, cut diagonally to the threads and folded over the cord (1, as shown at 4, after which the folded edges are united to the edge of the upper by stitching. The pocket I) may, however, be made in the edge of the lininge turned back at its edge, as shown at the left-hand edge of the upper in Fig. 2, and stitched to the edge of the upper to, which is consequently drawn and gathered by the action of the cord d in the said pocket.

in Fig. 4. the lining e isconnected to the upper a by two parallel lines of stitching, 5 and 6, forming a channel, within which the lastingcord (1 is inserted.

In Fig. 5 a single line of stitching, ,7, is employed to connect the coinciding edges of the upper and its lining, the cord being inserted between the said upper and lining behind the said line of stitches, while in Fig. 6 the upper (6 is turned back at its edge, which is connected with the part of the upper upon which it lies by aline of stitching, 8, thus forming the pocket b, for the insertion of the lasting-cord.

I claim- Aboot or shoe upper provided with a pocket or channel for the reception of a lasting cord subscribing witnesses.

JOHN H. APPLEGATE.

Witnesses 2 J 0s. P. LivnnMonn, BERNIOE J. NoYEs. 

